surfing

My mate dave lent me a surfboard on wednesday and I went straight to the beach after work. The conditions were rough thanks to a sustained 30 mile an hour wind that made just carrying the board a huge task. I probably looked like a joke from the shore - not because I sucked but because my boardshorts are outdated. I was able to stand up a few times and kind of just slide out in front of waves that had already broken, but that was about it. However I did take a few fantastic spils including two nose dives that sent me right to the bottom. Also my nipples were chafed into oblivion by the end. After staying about the same for my first two days, something just clicked on the third day. I wiped out a few times, but then, out of nowhere I came up with the pontiac game changing performance. I was able to stand up and actually ride a wave and turn horizontally along the break. I was shocked, like a gameshow contestant with a parting gift I could not believe my eyes. Well I'm getting on a flight right now, taking the 10X world tour to Cairns.